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This ensemble includes the bodice, overskirt, and underskirt with cotton lace panels and tiny, silver sequins. The silk faille is patterned in damask with a graceful bow that has been highlighted in key locations with sequins. It is also a victim of “inherent vice”: condition problems that are caused by the material and processes used to make it. The shell fabric is water-marked. Water marking on silk is created with heat and pressure, applied with a hot roller . But this silk suffer long, regular lines of weakness that became splits over time. These lines are almost certainly where the ends of the water marking roller cut into the silk as it was pressed into the fabric. Another inherent vice is the silver sequins, which are darkened by tarnish that cannot be safely removed and also weakened the cotton threads used to attach them to the dress.
This ensemble includes the bodice, overskirt, and underskirt with cotton lace panels and tiny, silver sequins. The silk faille is patterned in damask with a graceful bow that has been highlighted in key locations with sequins. It is also a victim of “inherent vice”: condition problems that are caused by the material and processes used to make it. The shell fabric is water-marked. Water marking on silk is created with heat and pressure, applied with a hot roller . But this silk suffer long, regular lines of weakness that became splits over time. These lines are almost certainly where the ends of the water marking roller cut into the silk as it was pressed into the fabric. Another inherent vice is the silver sequins, which are darkened by tarnish that cannot be safely removed and also weakened the cotton threads used to attach them to the dress.
The ensemble after treatment
The ensemble before treatment
Detail of the cuff
With so many sequins detached (and painstakingly collected by conscientious caretakers over the years), the locations for their reattachment had to be prioritized for where their absence was most disturbing. One location chosen for “re-sequining” was the bodice cuff edges. The silver sequins left “shadows” on their former locations, so it was easy to see where sequins ought to be.
Back of the ensemble after treatment
Back of the bodice before treatment
The back of the bodice suffered from split at the center back seam.
Back of the bodice after treatment